Monday, December 22, 2008

The Good Old Days

By Cindy Cross

In the past two decades, the number is restaurants in my neighborhood has grown tremendously. At least eighty restaurants have opened in my neighborhood in the course of the last two years.

What was once a dark street now has competing restaurants on the block, each newer and more illuminated than the other. Unfortunately the awful smells of exhaust coming out of their air conditioning units cover up what ever delicious mouthwatering smells could waft through the restaurants door, choking any would-be customers as they walk by.

The new restaurants all have one thing in common, a rigid caste system of restaurant managers, assistant restaurant managers, dining room managers, kitchen managers, each proudly displaying name and rank on the name tag pinned to his or her chest. These tags are status symbols and are meant to let you, the client, know that the bearer has attended and graduated from a restaurant or hotel management school.

The food isn't any tastier considering what else is happening in this place. It slows down the rate off service. Too many cooks spoil the broth particularly when each of the cooks is jealously guarding his or her station, hoping to do better than their colleagues just a few tables away.

Succeeding, obviously, is gaged by monetary terms, not the quantity of devoted clientele. I am convinced that at those restaurant and hotel management schools a course is offered on how to combine dishonesty and intimidation when recommending the most expensive meal on the menu.

The entrepreneurially-minded assistant to the assistant manager next employs these talents to complement his or her own earnings. This depends on the assistant managers clever use of intimidation to extract exorbitant and undeserved tips.

At one time, restaurants that were successes were run by individuals who cared. Not only did they care about the restaurant, they also cared about their clientele. They were often family-owned eateries, where the owner, manager, his son, daughter or employee, no name tags, no caste system, would develop personal relationships with the local butcher, fishmonger or vegetable vendor. They were not above going to market and buying the freshest products available to use for cooking dishes, not ones bearing long unpronounceable names imported from across seas and horribly mangled.

Before restaurant management and hotel schools spread in my country, you could dine in a restaurant and ask what was good that night. The manager, owner, waiter, kitchen boy, whomever, would answer you honestly and enthusiastically. They would tell you that the roast chicken is so good you are bound to eat your fingers after having it, a local expression they would use when they are right 90% of the time. - 15431

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